Category Archives: 2009 pacific NW

Recap: Washington Coast and the Olympic Peninsula

After I finished up in Astoria, it was time to say good-bye to Oregon and hello to Washington!  First up was a drive across the long bridge – and then depart again from 101 and head back to the coast, to Cape Disappointment.

From Wikipedia:

The cape was named on April 12, 1788 by British fur trader John Meares who was sailing south from Nootka in search of trade. After a storm, he turned his ship around just north of the Cape and therefore just missed the discovery of the Columbia River.[1] Alternatively, the cape may have been named in Nov. 1805 by a member of the Lewis & Clark Expedition, which had recently succeeded in reaching the Pacific, when he found no ships in the vicinity, according to the journal of the expedition as recited in the Ken Burns documentary.

Some sailors are such…..pessimists…. (Cape Fear, Cape Foulwind…)

This cape gets some crazy weather – which makes it a perfectly good location for the US Coast Guard to have their National Motor Lifeboat School – where the guardsmen learn to roll and right their 52 and 47 foot lifeboats.  They actually do it right off the cape, when the weather brings big waves.  This photo is taken from the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center (I should mention that Cape Disappointment and Astoria were the ending points for the expedition) and although I did get there around 9:00am, I was a little too late to see the guys rolling the boats (as you can see the weather has calmed down).  I hear it is very cool to watch.

Cape Disappointment lighthouse (southern point of Washington)

I wanted to walk out to the lighthouse – however – I was a bit…..wait for it…..disappointed:

oh the irony.  would you expect anything less at Cape Disappointment.

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Recap: Newport to Astoria, OR (Goonie Adventures)

So after leaving Newport (and checking out the harbor seals in the previous post), I headed north towards Astoria, OR.


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There are may pullouts off 101, and this time when I stopped, I found two guys surfing in those unbelievable waves. Not only is the water REAAALLLLY cold, but the surf was rough so I’m not sure how they pulled it off! If you look closely, you can see one of the guys standing up and riding a wave in…

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Since 101 takes an inward route, it’s very popular to take Three Capes Drive.  I stopped at the beach of one of the little towns along the way – here you can see some storms coming in off the coast. Continue reading

Recap: Oregon Coast: Port Orford to Newport

One of the first things I learned about the area around Port Orford was that this was the location for various Japanese offensives during World War II (bombs dropped and balloon bombs).   The bombs were meant to set off massive wildfires but many were duds.  One of those balloon bombs caused the only deaths in the continental US during WW2:

On May 5, 1945, a pregnant woman and five children were killed when they discovered a balloon bomb that had landed in the forest of Gearhart Mountain in southern Oregon. Pastor Archie Mitchell and his pregnant wife Elsye drove up to Gearhart Mountain with five of their Sunday school students (aged 11-14)to have a picnic, and Elsye and the children got out of the car while Archie drove on to find a parking spot. As Elsye and the children looked for a good picnic spot, they saw a strange balloon lying on the ground. As the group approached the balloon, a bomb attached to it exploded and Elsye and all five children were killed. Archie witnessed the explosion and immediately ran to the scene and used his hands to extinguish the fire on his wife’s and the children’s clothing, but he could not save them. [7] They are the only known deaths on the continental U.S. as the result of enemy action during WWII. They are also the only known deaths caused by the balloon bombs.

Port Orford is also the most western incorporated city in the lower 48.  It’s at the northern end of what is called the “Banana Belt” in Oregon – where the climate is a little warmer than points north.

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When I set out from Port Orford on Monday morning, it was pouring rain.  As I was driving north, Continue reading

Recap: Pacific Northwest: Northern CA to Port Orford, OR

After being in Wisconsin for a few days (for the “homecoming” of Brett Favre & the Vikings to Lambeau to play Green Bay on 11/1), I flew in to San Francisco on Friday November 6.  I got to stay the night with my aunt and uncle in Clayton, CA before they kicked me out on Saturday morning (ok, not really, but we’ll pretend).  I picked up a rental and set off for Northern CA, via Sonoma.  Sadly, I didn’t take any pictures in wine country but it sure was beautiful.

Once I got out of the valley, the landscape began to change.  The people started changing as well.  :)   I saw many beat-up Chevy vans with curtains – you know – the kind used by child molesters, hippies, and serial killers.  There were also many hitchhikers.

Along the way, I detoured slightly off the main highway (101) onto Avenue of the Giants, in the vicinity of Humboldt Redwoods State Park.  It was starting to get dark so I had to zoom through pretty quick (and no pictures!!!) but it was lovely, and it was my introduction to the beautiful redwoods that I would get to enjoy for the rest of the trip!  The Avenue of the Giants was originally part of 101 until they built the bypass (current 101) – the road was very narrow and they obviously could not widen it because of the big trees.

My destination for the night was Eureka, CA, a cute little town on the northern coast.  In the lumber heyday, towns like Eureka had massive lumber mills.  Many of the buildings are Victorian – wood and ornately decorated.  My Aunt Jo had told me about a microbrewery up there, so I went to check it out:  Lost Coast Brewery.  Loved the beer, loved the food!  It was a great find.  “Lost Coast” is the nickname for the area, as the topography of the area prevented state highways and interstates from being constructed and the region is generally undeveloped.  That is what makes it beautiful!

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Eight Ball Stout Beef Stew….yum:
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The next morning, it was time to head for Oregon, stopping in Redwoods National Park along the way.  It was a great drive along the ocean – where there were tons of warning signs about deadly waves (and tsunamis).

Sounds so much better than Deadly Tennis Shoe Waves.  i kid, i kid.

Tall tress…

In Redwoods Nat'l Park

Looking out over tons of Redwoods – it was lovely – and it smelled like Christmas!  This vista was off an old logging road.  I was shocked to learn that the redwoods aren’t considered endangered.  I just assumed that they were fragile but that is not the case.  There were many areas where groves of trees had been harvested (off the National and State park lands) and where new redwoods had been planted.

Looking out over tons of redwoods.  oh and i loved it b/c it smelled like Christmas.

Resident elk heard appeared out of nowhere.  There’s so many of them, and not much you can do when they are in the street.

resident elk herd

Big tree, little me.  I believe this is in one of the State parks near Redwoods National Park – on the west side of 101.

big tree!

You’ll get dizzy trying to look for the tops of them.

tall trees!

This is Klamath Overlook.  The mouth of the Klamath River and its sandspit, as well as the coastline to the south, are visible from this point.

Klamath overlook (still in CA)

Next, I headed up to Crescent City, CA to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.  It was probably my favorite of all the redwoods parks, because it is the least developed and more serene.  The following photos are from the 12 mile drive called Howland Hill Road – which is 12 miles of dirt/gravel/mostly one lane through old growth redwoods.  This was probably one of the most beautiful areas in the world.  The sun was going down, it was beginning to get dark, so that really added to the spookiness of the forest (and it also meant that there were few other vehicles).

still in CA - on some backcountry one lane dirt road through the woods - very Twilight...

I stopped off for a few minutes to walk a loop trail – the trees seemed much bigger here – and I’ll be quite honest, Thank God it was a loop because you could easily get lost back there.

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My favorite picture of the forest!!  Ewok scenes from Star Wars were filmed in this forest.

Star Wars was filmed in this particular forest (not Redwoods Nat'l Park - but it's another Park - can't think of the name)

I made it back to 101 and up to Oregon….in time for the sunset!  This is somewhere between Gold Beach and Port Orford.

Somewhere in Oregon between Gold Beach and Port Orford (in the south)

A little farther north, and the sun was on it’s way down….nothing like a Pacific sunset.

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Sunday night I stayed the night Port Orford, OR, at the Compass Rose B&B.  My hosts were Karen and Doug and they were excellent.  Since it was a Sunday night in the off season, I had the whole house to myself.  Doug was a WONDERFUL chef, I had a great vegetable frittata and homemade oatmeal (?) scones.  They are also friends with a cranberry farmer, so I had some fresh cranberry juice, along with some homemade cranberry biscotti.  I really enjoyed my time with them and I hope to return to Port Orford for a longer stay in the future!

Dinner @ Hard Rain in Port Orford.  It’s a bakery but they make the BEST pizza crust.

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…to be continued…


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